SV Sound Speaker PB10 ISD User Manual

SV Subwoofers  
OWNERS’  
GUIDE  
SVS Powered Box, Single  
10” ISD (PB10-ISD) ™  
Contents:  
Pages 2-3 Safety Instructions  
Page 4 Welcome  
Page 5 About your new SV Subwoofer  
Pages 6-9 Setup, integration, and calibration  
Page 9-10 Powered Box amp features  
Pages 11-12 Bass demos for your home theater  
Page 13 Home theater terms  
Pages 14-15 Notes  
Page 16 Terms and conditions  
Last update: 25 July, 2005  
 
Page 3  
SV Subwoofers  
13. Unplug this apparatus during lightning storms or when unused for long  
periods of time.  
14. Refer all servicing to qualified service personnel. Servicing is required  
when the apparatus has been damaged in any way, such as power-supply  
cord or plug is damaged, liquid has been spilled or objects have fallen into  
the apparatus, the apparatus has been exposed to rain or moisture, does not  
operate normally, or has been dropped.  
15. WARNING: To reduce the risk of fire or electric shock, this apparatus  
should not be exposed to rain or moisture and objects filled with liquids,  
such as vases, should not be placed on this apparatus.  
16. To completely disconnect this equipment from the mains, disconnect the  
power supply cord plug from the receptacle.  
17. The mains plug of the power supply cord shall remain readily operable.  
The lightning flash with arrowhead symbol within an  
equilateral triangle, is intended to alert the user to the  
presence of un-insulated "dangerous voltage " within  
the product's enclosure that may be of sufficient  
magnitude to constitute a risk of electric shock to  
persons.  
The exclamation point within an equilateral triangle is  
intended to alert the user to the presence of important  
operating and maintenance (servicing) instructions in  
the literature accompanying the product.  
 
Page 4  
SV Subwoofers  
Welcome.  
From the entire SVS team, congratulations on your purchase of a  
new standard in home theater and music bass!  
Your sub isn’t some generic black box built someplace you can’t even  
find on a map. It’s made in our Liberty, Ohio factory by home audio  
fanatics... like you. Designed, and tested using the latest state of the  
art instruments... and assembled by hand, your SV Subwoofer is  
without a doubt one of the best investments you’ll ever make in  
bringing music and theater home.  
We’ll help you to set up your sub right, and in no time, you’ll be  
giving “demos” of your favorite DVDs or music selections to all your  
friends and neighbors (be kind if you live in an apartment!). This  
isn’t just a subwoofer after all, it’s a carefully designed audio  
component carefully tuned in our labs, by the award winning SVS  
skunk works team.  
You’re unlikely to have heard, or felt, bass like this before, unless it  
was in a top-notch, commercial movie theater. Audio in your home  
will never be quite the same again. That’s a promise.  
Already have a question about your sub? You might answer it by  
reading this manual, we think you’ll find it easy to read and more  
informative than most. For even more detailed discussion about set-  
up topics check out our Questions/FAQs page at  
know, and then some.  
Maybe you just want to share a bit of bass news? Or perhaps you  
have a story about your SV Subwoofer to share with us? Maybe  
something we missed in our website? No matter, feel free to send a  
note to us at: [email protected] or L-Sound, SVS’s  
exclusive re-seller in Scandinavia: [email protected]  
It’s not often you can talk to the guys who made your audio  
component. In this case, we look forward to it.  
SVS Customer Service  
 
Page 5  
About your SV Subwoofer  
There maybe be other subwoofers that look like them, but virtually none work like  
them. Not at this price. SV Subwoofers are decidedly different in how they are  
designed, produced, sold, and even in the exceptionally high quality components we  
use. The best part? You could have spent much more and still not come close to the  
performance our subwoofers provide. So, what makes a subwoofer an SVS?  
Quality components, sane prices. You might be surprised at how inexpensive the  
components in some not-so-inexpensive subwoofers are. At SVS, performance is  
king... not shaving off a few dollars from component costs. We scour the earth for the  
best, most cost-effective parts (when we don’t make them ourselves), and meld them  
into finely tuned designs that define high performance home theater (HT) and music  
bass. We’ve tested and discarded plenty that didn’t meet our tough standards. If we  
use it, you know “it” is satisfied some tough customers first. Us.  
Get “square”. Typical subs require heavy internal bracing and many we’ve seen are  
simply poorly made. We did a host of studies that optimized the materials, the size,  
and even the enclosure finish to ensure a rigid design that was still compact and able to  
take the abuse your family and friends can dish out. SVS cabinets are no ordinary  
boxes. Selling through select dealers means your sub, and not glossy ads, get the  
priority at SVS. Tap the side of your sub, look at those smooth corners, and you’ll  
know what we mean.  
Stable front firing woofer. Our tough box design is one plus, but we’ve also taken  
great lengths to design a simple and effective front firing configuration. Look for little  
details like stainless steel mounting pins and match rubber lined sockets (instead of  
cheap plastic parts). Removable rubber feet allow for stable placement on any surface.  
No rattling, or buzzing allowed, even if you put your sub on tile or wood floors.  
Custom low turbulence port designs. When you listen to our trend-setting ported  
subs you’ll hear (and feel) bass like never before, with a exceptionally low noise and  
distortion. Huge patented, 3” flared port fittings make the difference. You’ll quickly  
realize something special went into your new sub the second you fire it up.  
Stylish, and understated. From the fine, durable enclosure finish, to the attractive  
color-keyed grill, you’ll be amazed at how easy it is to lose your sub in a corner.  
SVS’s aren’t tiny, but this is one of those times size does matter. There are many  
brands of boring “black box” subs out there. Fortunately, you didn’t just unpack one.  
World class power. Our North American built amps are designed and manufactured  
with a level of fit and finish, and power, practically unheard of at this price. Did we  
mention power? It’s there in spades (though we rate them conservatively). And SVS  
starts with efficient designs which don’t require significant levels of power robbing  
equalization to go low and flat. This way, our amps can be dedicated to reproducing  
low frequencies, not making up for a lack of enclosure space (the bane of clean, deep  
bass). As a result, we don’t require the megawatts some subs do. Plus they run cool  
and reliable in those vented cylinders. We sweat the details on integrating a top of the  
line amp in your sub, so you don’t have to.  
 
Page 6  
SV Subwoofers  
Setup, calibrating and integration  
What’s to know? Well, first of all, setting up an SV Subwoofer is  
pretty darn easy. There are a few key things to get right though if you  
want to get the most out of your sub…  
Unpacking. You’re probably eager to fire up your sub, but take time  
to carefully unpack everything. Save the box and shipping materials,  
just in case you need to return the sub for any reason.  
Location. They say it’s ALL about location right? It’s the same with  
setting up your subwoofer. So, where to put it? Go for a corner if  
you can, and avoid putting your sub where it might adjoin large open  
areas Studies have shown that the deepest and flattest bass response  
.
is typically attained when a subwoofer is placed within a few feet of  
one of your home theater’s corners. A corner near your seat is best of  
all. The front-firing configuration of this SVS makes this easy.  
Whether you put the sub in front or to the rear of your seating area  
makes surprisingly little difference. Deep home theater bass, like that  
from “5.1 channel” DVDs is non-directional. You can’t tell where it is  
coming from, even though you can hear, and feel it.  
Hook-up (see fig. 1). To configure your new sub, a simple mono,  
shielded 75 Ohm A/V RCA type cable (a.) is all you need to take the  
subwoofer output jack of your DD/DTS surround sound receiver (b.)  
and feed the low-level input of the sub’s amp.  
NOTE: Stop now if you aren’t  
SVS PB10-ISD  
“Input” jack  
Totally  
familiar with your  
Ensure all  
receiver’s manual.  
power to your equipment is off  
when making these connections. Also, be  
certain your power outlet can handle  
a
minimum of 350 watts. (Use of “convenience  
outlets” on receivers are not recommended for  
powering your SVS.)  
(a.)  
(b.)  
DD/DTS Processor/Receiver  
Fig. 1  
(Subwoofer “Out” RCA jack)  
 
SV Subwoofers  
Page 7  
More Setup, calibrating and integration  
If you are running a pair of SV Subwoofers (fig. 2), you will need to use a  
standard “Y” cable adapter (c.) The best adaptor to use for this task has one male  
RCA connection and two female RCA outputs. From the “Y” cable you can run  
a standard 75 Ohm RCA to RCA signal cable (d.) to each sub, thus “splitting” the  
Low Frequency Effects (LFE) and other bass signals from your receiver and  
effectively feeding both subwoofers with the same signal.  
SVS PB10-ISD  
“Input” RCA jack  
NOTE: Now is a good time to select  
if you want “ON” (always on) or  
“AUTO ON” which turns your sub  
on only when a bass signal is present.  
(d.  
“Y” cable/splitter from  
receiver  
(c.)  
DD/DTS Processor/Receiver  
(Subwoofer “Out” jack)  
Fig. 2  
Calibration” isn’t only for tech minded folks, it’s critical to a proper  
configuration of your home theater sound system. Fortunately, adjusting channel  
balance (or calibration) is as simple to do as it is important. The first order of  
business is making sure your DD/DTS surround sound system is set up properly.  
We recommend you consult your audio/video receiver (or processor) manual to  
refresh on the procedures to do this. Generally, this requires ensuring the  
receiver’s test tones, or a special test disk (like Ovation Software’s Avia) play  
back at the same volume from each of your system’s speakers. That’s speakers at  
left, center, right, left surround and right surround (and if equipped, center rear),  
plus the subwoofer . (More on sub level in a second). Skip to page 9 (“Powered  
Box Amp”) if you aren’t familiar with your sub’s amp, and come back to  
calibration.  
Some things to check as you get ready to calibrate:  
Are your speakers set correct to the correct “size”? Your receiver/  
processor might allow you to indicate if your speakers are “Small” or  
“Large”. Selecting the size accordingly will ensure bass goes to most  
appropriate speakers, and use the subwoofer correctly too. Also, is your  
subwoofer turned “ON”? We don’t mean “is your subwoofer amplifier  
on?” (that’ll be important later too) but rather, is your receiver sending a  
bass signal to your sub amp? This can only happen if you say “Yes” (or  
“ON”) in the “Subwoofer” selection during the setup of any typical Dolby  
Digital/DTS capable receiver (you’ll need to enter your receiver’s setup  
 
SV Subwoofers  
Page 8  
“menu” to check these critical choices).  
Is your receiver connected to the sub amp? Use a well-shielded  
RCA cable (sometimes called a “patch cord”) to hook to the  
subwoofer output of your DD/DTS receiver to the RCA input jack of  
your SVS amplifier. As mentioned earlier, you’ll need to “split” the  
subwoofer signal with a “Y Cable” if you bought a pair of subs.  
Is your Radio Shack ® sound pressure level (SPL)  
meter ready? This tool is absolutely essential to proper  
home theater audio setup. It’s akin to a tire pressure gauge  
for your car (you don’t set your tires by “feel” right?). Set  
the meter to “Slow” and “C-weighting” (and turn the dial to  
70 or 80dB depending on your test tone source). Haven’t  
got the meter yet? Order one from L-Sound. We prefer  
the analog instead of the digital display model.  
Getting ready to start now: Make sure your receiver/processor master  
volume is set at “00 dB” or some other easy to remember reference level.  
Finally, ensure your SVS’s volume/gain control is set no more than 1/4 to  
1/3rd up, for now. It’s also critical to check the subwoofer level control of  
your surround receiver before you begin the test tones. Set the subwoofer  
output signal no higher than “-5 dB” initially (that’s one quarter way up,  
given a typical receiver’s subwoofer channel level limits of –10 dB to +10  
dB) . Your LFE “trim” or “peak limiter”, if you have one, should be set to  
0dB to start (that’s full up) but this can be dialed down later to tame peaks  
if needed. Turn off any sound-field processing modes, “midnight mode”  
etc. Your LFE should go to the “subwoofer only”, not “mains” too, if this  
is an option in your system.  
Now play your receiver's internal test tones so you have something to  
measure with your SPL meter. Or, buy a test DVD such as the Avia. A  
test disk’s tones ensure your entire signal path, from the DVD player to  
your speakers, is set correctly. Whatever you use, when the tones start  
alternating from speaker to speaker (watch your sound meter now), set each  
speaker’s volume to about 75 dB (or 85dB if using Avia) by using the  
receiver’s dedicated channel level controls (leaving receiver’s master  
volume the same). We recommend you turn down the receiver’s  
subwoofer output level before you significantly lower your sub’s volume/  
gain control. This helps keep distortion sent to your SVS to a minimum.  
You should not be set this control lower than –5 dB however, since some  
adjustment room is needed to fine tune levels later. If your subwoofer  
 
Page 9  
SV Subwoofers  
reading is still too high then turn down the sub’s amp volume a little with  
each run.  
But what’s “too high”?? Tastes vary, and so do movie soundtracks, but  
your SVS is capable of tremendous levels of low distortion, low frequency  
bass — far more than most commercial subs. Take advantage of this,  
especially if you like action movies with lots of “.1” channel (LFE) action,  
and give the sub a bit more “bump” during calibration. Keep in mind too  
that the human ear is relatively insensitive to low frequencies. This, coupled  
with the fact most folks don’t watch movies at Dolby Digital reference level  
(fairly loud), means raising the bass up a few dBs usually yields a more  
satisfying movie and music experience.  
What sub levels do we recommend? If you watch movies at relatively  
moderate sound levels, a good start is a range of +1dB to +3dB above your  
other channels (as measured with your sound meter). This means the test  
tone will waiver about 78 dB for the subwoofer portion of the calibration run  
(88dB with Avia). (Note: You may want to rotate the sound meter SPL  
meter dial to 80dB to get a good reading with these higher levels.) Note too  
that many modern surround sound receivers allow a variety of different  
subwoofer level settings, depending on the “listening mode” you are in.  
With “Dolby Digital” as your “mode” use the above calibration routine. You  
may well find that CD “Stereo” music calls for a lower bass settings adjusted  
by ear. The above is a guide… experiment. The louder your master volume  
though, the more you should back off the subwoofer’s level to compensate.  
Audible distress is a sign to lower things a bit. Avoid your driver bottoming,  
resulting in a loud “clack”!  
Location and measurement. You should take the above measurements  
from your typical preferred seat for watching movies. Be advised, strong  
bass levels can vary tremendously simply by moving your seat or your  
subwoofer a few feet. Such is the nature of long wave-length, low bass  
sound. Don’t hesitate to try different locations and different levels for your  
subwoofer. Setting levels which are too high (and often, too low) is the most  
common subwoofer setup error.  
Powered Box amp. We looked the world over for the best  
performing sub amp that’s still affordable. What resulted is an SVS custom-  
designed, North American-made amp with amazing build quality, and just  
the features folks with today’s digital surround sound systems need.  
Volume/Gain. Use gain (in conjunction with your receiver’s subwoofer  
output level control) to dial in a bass calibration to your liking. Start  
calibration with the sub’s volume 1/4 to 1/3 of the way up (turned clockwise  
from the left).  
Phase. Think of long bass waves as conflicting or enhancing each other,  
depending on the timing of their arrival at your listening location (either  
 
SV Subwoofers  
Page 10  
together, or not). Since some of your room’s bass might come from main,  
center and/or surround speakers, as well as your sub, getting these bass wave  
forms to arrive in a complementary fashion is the difficult job of the phase  
control. Essentially, “phase” varies the timing of the bass waves coming from  
the sub. But don’t despair if you don’t hear much difference, especially if  
running a single subwoofer. Bass “cancellation” will vary by room shape,  
volume, and the bass frequency. No one setting is likely to ever be perfect. One  
technique to optimize phase is to find a nice “bassy” loop (such as the menu of  
the “Godzilla” movie DVD) and measure the loop’s SPL response at various  
bass peaks. As the loop runs, you can have an assistant adjust the phase control  
in small steps while you measure. When you see the most response on a given  
bass passage, typically that’s the setting with the least cancellation (for the  
frequencies of the demo loop).  
If you have a pair of subwoofers, calibrate with only one subwoofer on at a  
time. When finally switching on both SVS’s (assuming you calibrated both  
individually to the exact same level) you should have a combined reading of  
+6dB more than when one sub was playing. If you do not, have an assistant  
slowly move the phase on only one subwoofer a bit until you get about +6dB  
more than with one sub playing. This ensures your subs are not “canceling”  
each other out due to poor phase alignment. Again, all measurements must be  
from your prime viewing seat.  
Line In. Use your sub’s “Line In” jack to connect the subwoofer to the output  
jack of your receiver/processor. A simple RCA to RCA cable is all you need.  
Auto-On. Your Powered Box allows itself to be in an “Auto-On” mode… or  
“On” all the time. With the former setting (the switch in the “Auto” position)  
your subwoofer will “sense” that a DVD or CD etc. has begun and switch its  
audio circuits on immediately (the “hard” power switch mentioned below must  
be on, naturally). A few minutes after a movie, the Auto-On light will turn Red,  
switching the sub back off. When running (and sensing a signal) the Auto-On  
LED will be green. Sometimes, with very low listening levels, your subwoofer  
might not get enough of a bass signal from your surround sound processor to  
“trip” the Auto-On circuit. Should you ever find this to be the case you may  
leave this switch to “On”, or turn up the receiver’s subwoofer level some (be  
sure to recalibrate channels levels with your meter afterwards).  
Power. This heavy-duty, two-position switch next to the power cord will  
completely cut the power to your sub amp. Flip this switch to off before you  
ever move the sub or change inputs or outputs.  
A/C connection. Plug your sub into a dedicated A/C outlet. “Convenience”  
outlets of typical receivers often don’t provide the needed current for your SVS  
high power amp. Avoid them.  
Fuse. Mounted behind a small door near your cord, user replaceable (as spare is  
 
Page 11  
SV Subwoofers  
Bassy demo scenes to die for.  
So now what?? You’ve got one of the best theater and music bass  
subwoofers on the planet, you’re calibrated...want to see what she’ll do?  
But of course! Since finding those scenes can be a bit trying, we’ve  
compiled a list of our favorites below. After all, calibration with test  
tones is important, but it’s movies and music this sub is itching to show  
off. Chapter stops for DVDs are shown, with movie time in hours:  
minutes: seconds. What are you waiting for? Just hit PLAY!  
“The Iron Giant” Great family animation with SERIOUS bass,  
including strong peaks below 25 Hz. Jump to:  
1. “Chase thru the forest” Scene 8 (20:00 into the movie)  
2. “Robot Landing” (Train Impact) Scene 10 (25:40)  
3. “Green Boom” Scene 27 (1:11:40)  
Antz” Another good family movie, though not perhaps for small  
children. Extremely loud bass above 30 Hz.  
“Terror from Above”, Scene 17 (51:48)  
“The Matrix” Modern, violent, science fiction classic with plenty  
of shoot-’em-up bass blasts. Here’s some subtle and not so subtle.  
1. “Where we are grown”, Scene 12 (42:55)  
2. “Landing in fight”, Scene 15 (50:51)  
3. “Chopper shootout”, Scene 31 (1:47:15)  
“Das Boot” Arguably one of the best war pictures of all time with  
bass approaching 20 Hz. Very loud, very intense.  
1. “Depth charges”, Scene 21 (59:30)  
2. “Storm surfing”, Scene 25 (1:15:15)  
3. “Hitting bottom”, Scene 17 (53:15, Side “B”)  
“Apollo 13” Moving story, with some surprisingly subtle but  
revealing bass where it counts.  
1. “Lift off”, Scene 13 (35:15)  
2. “Coming home”, Scene 53 (2:05:43)  
 
SV Subwoofers  
Page 12  
More Bassy demo scenes.  
“Titanic” You love it...or you hate it. Regardless of which side  
of the ship you sit, this flick does some serious rumbling for  
you:  
1. “We can’t leave him” Scene 22 (2:21:50)  
2. “Ship Splitting” (2:41:30)  
3. “Last Gasp” (2:42:05)  
Blade” Not one for the kiddies, but loaded with deep bass.  
1. “Footstep”, Scene 4 (7:15)  
2. “Door blown” Scene 20 (50:05)  
“Aliens” Not just another modern sci-fi horror classic, this one  
rocks from intro to final scene.  
1. “Ship drop”, Scene 9 (41:20)  
2. “Awakenings”, Scene 15 (1:12:52)  
"Apocalypse Now" Making This Vietnam war movie, Francis  
Ford Copolla nearly went crazy...imagine what it'll do to your  
subwoofer!  
1. "Chopper ride" Scene 2 (0:19:47)  
2. "ARC LIGHT" Scene 4 (0:26:02)  
3. "Grenade launch" Scene 12 (1:27:58)  
“Contact” SETI with a (bass) twist or two along the way.  
1. “Bombing”, Scene 28 (1:36:30)  
2. “Space truckin”, Scene 33 (1:55:56)  
Dark City” One of Roger Ebert’s favorites, think he likes bass  
too?  
1. “Let the tuning commence”, Scene 8 (34:30)  
2. “City makeover”, Scene 15 (1:27:45)  
 
SV Subwoofers  
Page 13  
A Glossary of Home Theater Terms  
Don’t feel guilty if you want to skip over the below. But if you are  
curious about what some of the terms and abbreviations stand for, read  
on:  
CD - Compact Disc, the music standard and capable of great sound.  
Now joined by Super Audio CD (SACD) and DVD-Audio as high-  
resolution music alternatives that can really make subwoofers great  
audio upgrades.  
dB - Short for “deci-Bell” a unit of sound, a 3dB increase takes twice  
the acoustic power to attain!  
DD - “Dolby Digital”, the most popular form of digital surround sound,  
usually found on DVD soundtracks. Actually a compression algorithm  
that can provide 1 to 7 channels of movie audio .  
DPL - “Dolby Pro Logic”. The last generation of non-discreet channel  
surround sound. Derived from 2 “matrixed” analog channels.  
DTS - “Digital Theater System” similar to DD, but often with less  
compression. Many feel it sounds better than DD, but you be the judge.  
DVD - Amazing little video disk, DVD, doesn’t “mean” anything!  
HT - “Home Theater”. What you make of it. But a home (theater)  
without a subwoofer, isn’t quite up to our definition!  
Hz - Short for Hertz, the German scientist who came up with a scheme  
of measuring the frequency of sound waves. 15-30 Hz is very low bass  
and very rare in anything but movie soundtracks. 60-80 Hz is generally  
considered mid-bass above which most large full range speakers can  
easily produce. The real fun (and most common) deep bass, is in the  
middle of that range, call it 20-40 Hz.  
LFE - “Low Frequency Effects” are the “.1” channel in 5.1 or 6.1  
channel soundtracks. If you have a sub selected in your system, any  
LFE signal goes to the subwoofer. The sub may get bass from other  
channels as well however, depending on the “size” of speakers in your  
set-up.  
RMS - A common and accurate way to rate the power of an amplifier.  
Literally “Root Means Squared”. Typically measured in “watts”.  
SPL - “Sound Pressure Level”, a fancy way of saying “Volume”.  
Usually measured in dBs. SPL meters are critical to setting your  
 
SV Subwoofers  
Page 14  
Notes:  
 
SV Subwoofers  
Page 15  
Notes:  
 
Terms and Conditions  
14 days money back guarantee provided by the government: You as  
a Scandinavian consumer are entitled by law to cancel the order at your  
sole discretion within a period of 14 days from receipt of the product, for  
a return of the purchase price, provided the products is fully intact. You  
are obliged to arrange and pay for the return costs before a return of  
purchase price is made.  
15-45 day money-back guarantee provided by L-Sound: If you are  
not completely satisfied with the performance of your subwoofer, return  
it to us within 45 days from delivery for a full refund of the purchase  
price. Your only obligation is to arrange and pay for the return costs, and  
return the product fully intact in its original shipping box (with all parts).  
Shipping: When you receive your new subwoofer, please check to  
ensure there is no damage. If after unpacking you discover any damage  
that may have been caused by transportation on your product, we request  
you contact us immediately and if possible, provide a photo of damage  
in question to L-Sound at [email protected]  
Warranty: The product has a 3 year warranty against defects in  
materials and workmanship. Upon return the products will be repaired,  
and redelivered. Naturally, this warranty does not cover any product  
subjected to misuse or accidental damage.  
The bottom line: We’re proud of these subwoofers and want you to be  
as happy owning one, as we are selling one (or more) to you. E-mail L-  
Sound if you have any warranty question: [email protected]  
SV Subwoofers  
L-Sound  
Frolandsveien 6  
4847 Arendal  
Norway  
Phone: (+47) 377 11 333  
Fax: (+47) 377 10 440  
 

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